Setting Up Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi
This guide takes you from an empty box of parts to a working Home Assistant system, one step at a time. It assumes you have never used Home Assistant or a Raspberry Pi before. If you are not sure what Home Assistant is yet, start with What Is Home Assistant?
Every step below was checked against the official Home Assistant and Raspberry Pi documentation in October 2026. Small numbers like [1] link to the exact source in the Sources list at the bottom. Screen labels in bold are the words you will see on screen.
The big picture
You will use your everyday computer to copy ("flash") Home Assistant onto a memory card, put that card in the Raspberry Pi, plug the Pi into your internet router, and switch it on. From then on you set everything up from a web browser on any computer or phone in the house. You never need a keyboard or monitor on the Pi itself.[2]
The version you will install is called Home Assistant OS, a complete, ready-made system that includes Home Assistant and takes care of its own upkeep, so you install updates with a click instead of maintaining an operating system yourself (see Step 7). It is the installation type Home Assistant recommends for most people.[2]
Time needed: about an hour for the install and first setup, not counting shopping. Most of that is waiting for downloads.
Shopping list
Home Assistant supports the Raspberry Pi 5 and Raspberry Pi 4, with at least 2 GB of memory (RAM).[1] The Raspberry Pi 5 is the current model, so this guide uses it. It comes in 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 GB versions.[13] The 1 GB version is below Home Assistant's minimum, so skip it.
| Item | What to get | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Raspberry Pi 5 | 2 GB or more. 2 GB is Home Assistant's stated minimum.[1] A practical suggestion (not an official requirement): 4 GB if you plan to add extra apps later, because apps use memory on top of Home Assistant itself. | The small computer that runs Home Assistant around the clock. |
| Power supply | The official Raspberry Pi 27 W USB-C Power Supply (5.1 V, 5 A) for a Pi 5.[12] For a Pi 4, the official 15 W (5.1 V, 3 A) USB-C supply.[12][13] | Weak power is a top cause of odd problems. Phone chargers may not deliver full power, and a computer's USB port won't supply enough. Don't use either.[1] On a Pi 5, a supply that can't deliver 5 A also limits USB accessories to 600 mA.[13] |
| microSD card | At least 32 GB, marked A2 (Application Class 2).[1] The official Raspberry Pi microSD cards are A2-rated and come in 32, 64 and 128 GB.[15] | Holds Home Assistant and all your settings. A2 cards handle the many small reads and writes better.[1] See Storage for the SSD option. |
| SD card reader | Built into many laptops. Otherwise any inexpensive USB microSD adapter.[1] | So your computer can write to the card. |
| Ethernet (network) cable | Long enough to reach a free port on your router or network switch. | Required for installation. Wi-Fi can be used later, but a wired connection is more reliable and highly recommended.[1] |
| Case with cooling | The official Case for Raspberry Pi 5 (it has a built-in fan) or the Raspberry Pi Active Cooler.[13] | Protects the board. The Pi slows itself down when it gets hot (it starts throttling at 80 °C), and a fan prevents that.[13] |
| A computer with a web browser | Windows, Mac or Linux. | To run Raspberry Pi Imager, then to set up Home Assistant. |
| A smartphone (optional) | iPhone with iOS 16.4 or newer, or Android 6 or newer.[6] | For the free Home Assistant Companion app. |
| Micro-HDMI to HDMI cable (optional) | Pi 4 and Pi 5 use micro-HDMI, not full-size HDMI.[12] | Only for troubleshooting, so you can see the Pi's screen on a TV or monitor.[1] |
Would you rather skip the do-it-yourself part? Home Assistant Green is a small box sold with Home Assistant already installed: plug in power and a network cable and go straight to Step 3.[2]
Maybe later: Many sensors and bulbs use low-power wireless systems called Zigbee, Thread or Z-Wave instead of Wi-Fi. To use them you add a small USB radio, such as Home Assistant's own Connect ZBT-2 (Zigbee/Thread) or Connect ZWA-2 (Z-Wave).[20] You don't need one to start.
Storage: SD card or SSD?
Home Assistant writes to its storage all day long, recording history for your graphs and logs. Where it lives affects speed and long-term reliability. There are three sensible choices:
| Option | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| A. microSD card (A2, 32 GB or larger) |
|
|
| B. NVMe SSD on a Pi 5, using the Raspberry Pi M.2 HAT+ adapter board |
|
|
| C. SD card plus an SSD "data disk" (a USB SSD on a Pi 4 or Pi 5, or an NVMe SSD on an M.2 HAT+ on a Pi 5) |
A practical suggestion for a first build (not an official requirement): start with option A, a good A2 card, because it is the method the official guide covers. You can move to option C later in a few clicks (see Optional next steps), and nothing you set up is lost.
Step 1Write Home Assistant to the SD card
Raspberry Pi Imager is Raspberry Pi's free program for writing ("flashing") an operating system onto a memory card. Home Assistant OS is in its menu, so you don't have to download anything separately.[1][12]
- Install Imager. Download it from raspberrypi.com/software and run the installer (Windows or Mac). On Linux, download the AppImage version.[16][12]
- Insert the microSD card into your computer's card reader. Everything on the card will be erased.[1]
- Open Raspberry Pi Imager.
- Choose the device. Select your model, Raspberry Pi 5 (or Raspberry Pi 4), then Next.[12]
- Choose the operating system. Select Other specific-purpose OS → Home automation → Home Assistant, then the Home Assistant OS version that matches your board (RPi 5 or RPi 4).[1] Select Next.
- Choose the storage. Select your SD card, then Next.[1] Check the size shown so you pick the card and not some other drive. Leave Imager's Exclude system drives setting on. It stops you from erasing your computer's own disk by mistake.[12]
- Write. Select Write.[1] Imager warns you that the card will be erased. Confirm with I understand, erase and write. If your computer asks for an administrator password, enter it.[12] The Home Assistant guide has no customisation step here. Wi-Fi, users and the rest are all set up later in the browser.[1]
- Wait for writing and verifying. Imager writes the card, then checks it. Each part can take a few minutes. Let the check finish rather than skipping it.[12]
- Finish. Select Finish and eject the card safely.[1]
If Imager doesn't run on your computer, download the Home Assistant OS image file from the official Raspberry Pi installation page (there are separate files for the Pi 4 and the Pi 5) and write it with another imaging tool, such as Balena Etcher.[1]
Step 2Assemble and first boot
- Put the Pi in its case and connect the fan or cooler if your case has one, following the case's instructions.
- Insert the microSD card into the slot on the underside of the Pi, label facing away from the board. On the Pi 4 and Pi 5 it slides in and stops without a click.[12]
- Plug in the Ethernet cable from the Pi to your router or network switch. The Pi must be on the same network as the computer you'll use, and that network must have internet access.[1]
- Plug in the power supply last. The Pi turns on as soon as it has power. You don't need to press anything.[1][12] A status light on the board comes on.
On its first start, Home Assistant OS sets itself up and then needs the internet to download the rest of Home Assistant. Give it a few minutes.[1][3]
Step 3Open Home Assistant in your browser
On a computer or phone connected to the same home network, open a web browser and type this into the address bar (not a search box):[1][4]
http://homeassistant.localis the address to use. Since Home Assistant 2026.8, a new Home Assistant OS install no longer needs a port number (a numbered "door" on the device) on the end.[1][21][22]- Older guides add
:8123to the address. That was the old default. On a new install it only works while you're doing the first-time setup and stops working afterwards, so don't bookmark it. If the plain address doesn't open, tryhttp://homeassistant.local:8123.[1][3][23]
On a Pi 4 or Pi 5 the page usually appears within a minute or two of power-on.[1]
If that name doesn't work
The .local name relies on your computer finding the Pi by name on the home network. Some older Windows versions and stricter networks don't support that.[1] Try these in order:
http://homeassistant(without the.local), orhttp://homeassistant:8123if that doesn't open.[4]- Use the Pi's network address directly. Log in to your router's admin page and look at its list of connected devices for one named homeassistant. Your router shows a number made of four groups of digits separated by dots, which is the Pi's IP address. Type
http://followed by that number, and add:8123on the end if the plain address doesn't open.[4] - If nothing appears after 5 minutes, see Troubleshooting.[1]
Once it connects, you'll see a Preparing Home Assistant page. Home Assistant is downloading its latest version, about 700 MB, so this can take a while on a slow connection. When it's done, the welcome screen appears.[3]
Step 4Onboarding (first-time setup)
Onboarding is Home Assistant's short first-run setup. It takes a few minutes, entirely in the browser, with no commands or coding.[3]
- Create the owner account. On the welcome screen, select Create my smart home. Enter a Name (shown on screen), a Username (used to log in: all lowercase, no spaces) and a Password, then select Create account.[3]
Write these down and keep them somewhere safe. This is the owner (administrator) account, and there is no way to recover the owner credentials from inside Home Assistant.[3][18]
If you're moving from an older Home Assistant system, the welcome screen also offers to restore a backup instead. See Restoring a backup.[3]
- Set your home location. Search for or place your home on the map, then select Next. Home Assistant uses it to set your time zone, units and currency, and to create a "Home" zone (100 m radius by default) for automations such as "lights on at sunset" or "someone arrived home." You can change it later in Settings.[3]
- Choose what to share. Home Assistant asks whether to send anonymous usage statistics to help the project. Sharing is off by default. Choose what you're comfortable with and select Next.[3]
- Finish. Select Finish. You'll see your default dashboard.[3]
Bookmark http://homeassistant.local (or http:// plus the Pi's IP address if you had to use that). Don't bookmark an address ending in :8123 unless that's the only one that opens after setup is finished.[21][23]
Step 5Add your first devices and the phone app
An integration is a connector that lets Home Assistant talk to one brand of device or one online service. Once added, the hardware shows up as devices, each with one or more entities: the individual readings and controls, such as a sensor's temperature.[10]
Devices Home Assistant already found
Home Assistant scans your network for devices it recognizes.[5]
- Go to Settings → Devices & services. Some integrations are already listed because Home Assistant set them up automatically.[5]
- Look for the Discovered section. For each item you want, select Add and follow the prompts. Some brands ask you to press a button on the device or log in to your account with them.[5]
- When asked, choose an area (a room, such as "Kitchen") for the device. Areas let you say "turn off the kitchen" instead of naming every light.[10]
Adding something that wasn't found
- In Settings → Devices & services, select Add integration in the bottom-right corner.[5]
- Type the brand or service name, select it, and follow the steps.[5]
A good no-hardware practice run is the Workday integration, which knows workdays and holidays for your country. Home Assistant's own tutorial uses it as the first example.[5]
Install the Companion app on your phone
The free Companion app for iPhone and Android gives you your dashboards, alerts such as "garage door still open," and optional location sharing so Home Assistant knows when you're home.[6]
- Install Home Assistant from the App Store or Google Play, with your phone connected to your home Wi-Fi.
- Open it and tap Connect to my Home Assistant server. The app searches your network and offers your server when it finds it.[6] If it doesn't find it, tap Enter address manually and type the address that opens Home Assistant in your browser now. That's usually
http://homeassistant.local.[6][21] - Log in with the Home Assistant username and password you created during onboarding.[6]
- Give the phone a name (for example, "Pat's phone"). That's how it will appear in Home Assistant.[6]
- Choose whether to share your location. Location powers automations like "turn the heat down when everyone leaves," and the data goes only to your own Home Assistant.[6]
- The app asks for a connection security level. Most secure only allows unencrypted connections on your home network, and the app then asks you to confirm your home Wi-Fi network.[6]
- Allow notifications when asked, so Home Assistant can send you alerts.[6]
Using the app away from home needs remote access. The simplest way is the optional paid Home Assistant Cloud subscription from Nabu Casa. Home Assistant works fully without it.[11] The service is planned to be renamed Home Assistant Link on December 2, 2026.[11]
Step 6Set up backups
Do this on day one. A backup is a single file containing your whole setup: settings, automations, dashboards and history. If the SD card fails, or you move to new hardware, you restore that file and you're back where you were.[7]
Turn on automatic backups
- Go to Settings → System → Backups, and under Set up backups select Set up backups.[7]
- Download the emergency kit when offered, and store it somewhere safe outside Home Assistant: a password manager, a USB stick in a drawer, or a printed copy (see the box below).[7][8]
- Schedule: Daily is recommended. For the time, System optimal lets Home Assistant pick, or Custom lets you choose a time when every backup location will be switched on.[7]
- Back up before updating: turn this on, so you get a fresh backup before every update.[7]
- How many to keep: for example, 7. Older ones are deleted automatically.[7]
- What to include: Home Assistant recommends leaving out media and the shared folder to keep backups small.[7]
- Locations: choose where backups go (next section).[7]
Get a copy off the Pi
A backup that lives only on the Pi's own SD card disappears with the card. Home Assistant recommends keeping a copy on another system, and ideally one off-site.[7] Under Settings → System → Backups → Configure automatic backups → Locations, switch on any of these:[7]
- Network storage at home (a NAS or shared folder on another computer): add it first under Settings → System → Storage → Add network storage, and set its usage to Backup.[9]
- A cloud storage account such as Google Drive or Microsoft OneDrive: add that service's integration (see Step 5), then it appears as a backup location. Each one's Home Assistant integration page has the exact steps.[7]
- Home Assistant Cloud, if you subscribe: it stores your most recent backup (up to 5 GB) at no extra cost, always encrypted.[7]
For each location, the gear icon lets you choose whether its backups are encrypted. Home Assistant Cloud backups are always encrypted.[7] You can also download any backup to your computer: Show all backups, select the backup, then use the three-dot menu and select Download backup.[7]
About the backup encryption key. Home Assistant creates an encryption key (a long secret code that scrambles the backup so only someone with the key can read it) when you set up backups. The emergency kit contains this key.[8]
- To restore an encrypted backup onto a new or rebuilt system, you need the key. Without it there is no way to restore. Nabu Casa does not keep a copy and can't help recover it.[8]
- While your system still works, you can download the kit again from Settings → System → Backups, in the Encryption key section of the backup settings.[8]
- If you ever change the key, keep the old kit too. Older backups still need the old key.[8]
Make a backup right now
Go to Settings → System → Backups, select Backup now (lower-right), then Manual backup. Choose what to include, give it a name, pick locations, and select Create backup.[7]
Restoring a backup
- On the same system: Settings → System → Backups, select the backup, choose what to restore, and select Restore.[7]
- On a fresh install (new card or new hardware): at the onboarding welcome screen, choose Upload backup (or Home Assistant Cloud), select the file, choose what to restore (select everything for a full restore), enter the encryption key from the emergency kit, and select Restore backup. If you used a USB radio stick (Zigbee, Thread or Z-Wave), plug it into the new Pi first. Don't refresh the page while it works. A large system can take up to about 45 minutes. Afterwards, log in with the username and password that were in use when the backup was made.[7]
Step 7Keep it updated
Most updates wait for you to say go. The Supervisor, the background part that manages everything, updates itself automatically.[24][25] The operating system, Home Assistant itself ("Core") and any apps you install are updated only when you choose, though you can switch individual apps to update automatically.[9][26] Each of these parts is updated separately.[9] New versions of Home Assistant arrive about once a month. The version number is the year and month, for example 2026.10.[20]
- Make sure you have a recent backup stored off the Pi (Step 6).[9]
- Skim the release notes for the new version. Search the page for "Backward-incompatible changes" to see whether anything you use is changing.[9]
- Open Settings. Available updates appear at the top.[9]
- Select the update you want to install. Leave the backup switch on so a backup is made first.[9]
- Select Update and wait. The page may briefly disconnect while things restart.
- Afterwards, check Settings → System → Repairs and the logs for anything that needs attention.[9]
Don't see an update you expected? In Settings, open the three-dot menu (top right) and select Check for updates.[9]
Safety net for system updates: Home Assistant OS keeps two copies of the operating system. An update goes into the spare copy, and if the Pi fails to start from it, the Pi automatically goes back to the previous working version.[9] Home Assistant itself (Core) has a safety net too. If a Core update fails, the Supervisor automatically rolls back to the previous version.[24]
Optional next steps
- Switch to Wi-Fi (not recommended). Network settings are under Settings → System → Network.[19] Home Assistant works over Wi-Fi after installation, but Ethernet is more reliable.[1]
- Speed it up with an SSD (USB, or NVMe on a Pi 5). Make and download a full backup first. Plug in the SSD, go to Settings → System → Storage, select Move data disk, choose the SSD, and select Move. Anything already on the SSD is erased, and the move can take a while.[9]
- Try apps (called "add-ons" until early 2026). These are extra programs that run alongside Home Assistant, such as a file-sharing tool or a text editor. Find them under Settings → Apps. Add only what you need, since apps use disk space and memory.[10][17]
- Build your first automation, such as lights on at sunset. Each automation has three parts: When (the trigger), And if (optional conditions) and Then do (the actions).[10] For ideas, see what Home Assistant does day to day.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | What to try |
|---|---|
| Browser says "This site can't be reached" |
|
| Nothing after 5 minutes | The card may not have been written properly. Write it again with Imager, and try a different SD card if that doesn't help. To see what the Pi is doing, connect a monitor with a micro-HDMI cable and watch its screen.[1] |
| Stuck on Preparing Home Assistant, or Error installing Home Assistant | Select Show details to see the log. Check that your network has working internet. On first start, Home Assistant must set its clock over the internet and reach version.home-assistant.io, github.com and ghcr.io. Strict network filtering, such as a firewall that blocks time synchronization (NTP), can stop this. Fix the network, then wait a few minutes. It retries by itself.[4] |
| Pi won't start, restarts randomly, or USB devices misbehave | Use the official power supply for your model. Phone chargers and computer USB ports often can't supply enough.[1] If the status light is blinking in a pattern, look the pattern up in Raspberry Pi's LED warning flash codes.[12] If the Pi still won't start, write the card again and let Imager's verify step finish.[12] Home Assistant can watch for this for you. Add the Raspberry Pi Power Supply Checker integration (Settings → Devices & services → Add integration). It shows a problem if the Pi isn't getting enough power.[28] Weak power can also corrupt the SD card, so fix it promptly.[13] |
| Imager won't run on my computer | Download the Home Assistant OS image for your Pi model from the official installation page and write it with another tool, such as Balena Etcher.[1] |
| Imager doesn't show my SD card | Remove and reinsert the card or reader, and check that your computer sees it. Keep Exclude system drives turned on, so the only drives offered are removable ones.[12] |
| Phone app can't find Home Assistant | Make sure the phone is on your home Wi-Fi, then tap Enter address manually and type the address that works in your browser.[6] |
| Forgot the owner password | It can't be recovered from inside Home Assistant. With a keyboard and monitor connected to the Pi, you can reset it from the console. Home Assistant's "I'm locked out!" page has the steps.[18] |
| Lost the backup encryption key | If Home Assistant is still running and you haven't changed the key, download the emergency kit again from Settings → System → Backups. If the system is gone and you have no copy of the key, encrypted backups can't be restored.[8] |
| Slow or sluggish | Check that you're using a good A2 card, and consider moving to an SSD data disk, USB or NVMe on a Pi 5 (see Optional next steps).[1][9] Make sure the Pi has a fan or cooler, because it slows itself down when hot.[13] |
| Some devices show "unavailable" after restoring a backup | Battery-powered devices may need waking up, for example by pressing their button. If you had network storage connected, you may need to reconnect it.[7] |
Still stuck? The Home Assistant community forums and chat are friendly to beginners. They're linked from the Home Assistant website.[4]
Glossary
- A2 (Application Class 2)
- A rating printed on microSD cards. A2 cards handle many small reads and writes well, which suits Home Assistant.[1]
- App (formerly "add-on")
- An extra program that runs alongside Home Assistant on the same device, installed from Settings → Apps. Renamed from "add-on" in Home Assistant 2026.2.[10][17]
- Area
- A room or space you assign devices to, such as "Living room."[10]
- Automation
- A rule that runs by itself: when something happens, and if conditions are met, then do something.[10]
- Backup
- A single file holding your whole Home Assistant setup, used to recover or move to new hardware.[7]
- Companion app
- The official Home Assistant phone app for iPhone and Android.[6]
- Dashboard
- A screen of buttons, switches, graphs and readings you arrange yourself.
- Device
- A physical gadget (or service) as Home Assistant sees it, such as a motion sensor.[10]
- Emergency kit
- A file Home Assistant gives you that contains your backup encryption key. Keep it outside Home Assistant.[8]
- Encryption key
- The secret code needed to open an encrypted backup. Lose it, and those backups can't be restored.[8]
- Entity
- A single reading or control that belongs to a device, such as "temperature" or "light on/off."[10]
- Ethernet
- A wired network connection using a network cable plugged into your router.
- Flashing
- Writing a complete operating system onto a memory card or drive so a computer can start from it.[12]
- Home Assistant Cloud (Home Assistant Link)
- An optional paid service from Nabu Casa for remote access, Alexa and Google Assistant connections, voice services and off-site backup. Home Assistant works without it. It's planned to be renamed Home Assistant Link in December 2026.[11]
- Home Assistant Core
- The main Home Assistant program itself, updated separately from the operating system.[9]
- Home Assistant OS
- A complete, ready-made operating system built just to run Home Assistant. It is the recommended installation type and what this guide installs.[2]
- homeassistant.local
- The name your Home Assistant announces on your home network, so you can reach it without knowing its number address.[1]
- Integration
- A connector that lets Home Assistant talk to a brand of device or an online service.[10]
- IP address
- The number address your router gives each device on your network: four groups of digits separated by dots.
- M.2 HAT+
- Raspberry Pi's add-on board that lets a Pi 5 use a small NVMe SSD.[14]
- microSD card
- The tiny memory card the Raspberry Pi starts from and stores everything on.[12]
- NVMe SSD
- A very fast, small solid-state drive. On a Pi 5 it connects through an M.2 HAT+.[14]
- Onboarding
- Home Assistant's short first-time setup in the browser: owner account, location and sharing choices.[3]
- Port
- A numbered "door" on a device that a particular program listens on. A new Home Assistant OS install uses the standard web port (80), so you don't type a port number. Older installs and other install types use 8123, which is why many guides show
:8123on the end of the address.[22] - Raspberry Pi
- A small, inexpensive single-board computer made by Raspberry Pi Ltd.[12]
- Raspberry Pi Imager
- Raspberry Pi's free program for writing an operating system onto a memory card.[12]
- Router
- The box that connects your home network to the internet, usually from your internet provider.
- Supervisor
- The part of Home Assistant OS that installs and updates Home Assistant, apps and the operating system.[9]
- Throttling
- The Pi deliberately slowing itself down to cool off when it gets too hot.[13]
- Zigbee, Thread, Z-Wave
- Low-power wireless systems many sensors, locks and bulbs use instead of Wi-Fi. They need a small USB radio plugged into the Pi.[20]
The plain-language introduction: what it does and why people use it.
Sources
- Home Assistant, "Raspberry Pi" installation guide: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/raspberrypi/
- Home Assistant, "Installation" (overview and installation types): https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/
- Home Assistant, "Onboarding Home Assistant": https://www.home-assistant.io/getting-started/onboarding/
- Home Assistant, "Troubleshooting installation problems": https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/troubleshooting/
- Home Assistant, "Adding integrations": https://www.home-assistant.io/getting-started/integration/
- Home Assistant Companion App, "Getting Started": https://companion.home-assistant.io/docs/getting_started/
- Home Assistant, "Common tasks: Backups" (automatic and manual backups, locations, restoring): https://www.home-assistant.io/common-tasks/general/#backups
- Home Assistant, "Backup emergency kit": https://www.home-assistant.io/more-info/backup-emergency-kit/
- Home Assistant, "Common tasks: Home Assistant Operating System" (updating, network storage, external data disk, boot slots): https://www.home-assistant.io/common-tasks/os/
- Home Assistant, "Concepts and terminology": https://www.home-assistant.io/getting-started/concepts-terminology/
- Home Assistant, "Home Assistant Cloud" (including the planned rename to Home Assistant Link): https://www.home-assistant.io/cloud/ and the announcement https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2026/10/02/big-tech-ruined-the-cloud-so-were-renaming-ours/
- Raspberry Pi Documentation, "Getting started" (Imager steps, power supplies, microSD, cables, troubleshooting): https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/computers/getting-started.html
- Raspberry Pi Documentation, "Raspberry Pi hardware" (models and memory options, power supply and power supply warnings, cooling and thermal throttling, NVMe boot): https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/computers/raspberry-pi.html
- Raspberry Pi Documentation, "M.2 HAT+" (sizes, case fit, firmware prerequisite, booting from NVMe): https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/accessories/m2-hat-plus.html
- Raspberry Pi Documentation, "SD cards" and "SSDs" (ratings and speeds): https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/accessories/sd-cards.html and https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/accessories/ssds.html
- Raspberry Pi Imager download page: https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/
- Home Assistant release notes, "2026.2: Add-ons are now called Apps": https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2026/02/04/release-20262/
- Home Assistant, "I'm locked out!": https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/locked_out/
- Home Assistant, "Network Configuration": https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/network/
- Home Assistant home page (official hardware such as Connect ZBT-2 and Connect ZWA-2, and recent release notes): https://www.home-assistant.io/
- Home Assistant release notes, "2026.8: Approachable by design" (section "The same Home Assistant, minus the magic number"): https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2026/08/05/release-20268/
- Home Assistant, "HTTP" integration (server port default since 2026.8): https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/http/
- Home Assistant Core pull request #174278, "Default to port 80 and redirect legacy port 8123 under Supervisor": https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/174278
- Home Assistant Developer Docs, "Supervisor" (responsibilities, including automatic Core rollback): https://developers.home-assistant.io/docs/supervisor/
- Home Assistant Supervisor source, validate.py (auto-update on by default): https://github.com/home-assistant/supervisor/blob/main/supervisor/validate.py
- Home Assistant Developer Docs, "Supervisor API endpoints" (per-app auto-update setting): https://developers.home-assistant.io/docs/api/supervisor/endpoints/
- Home Assistant blog, "Raspberry Pi 5 support and more in Home Assistant OS release 12" (SD card boot plus NVMe data disk recommendation): https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2024/02/26/home-assistant-os-12-support-for-raspberry-pi-5/
- Home Assistant, "Raspberry Pi Power Supply Checker" integration: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/rpi_power/